Dark beer belongs in summer too

Most people think of imperial stout and porter as winter beer. Something heavy and dark you bring out when temperatures drop below zero and there are candles on the table. I understand the logic – but I disagree. After a few years behind the brew kettle, I learned that dark beer and warm days can actually work surprisingly well together, if you know what you're doing.

It's about rethinking what kind of taste you want in your glass. Is it always an ice-cold, light pale lager you're after in the summer sun? Or is it perhaps something sweet, rich, and a little different that suits grilled meat, strong cheese, or chocolate-based desserts?

One of the things that makes people skeptical about dark beer in summer is the idea that it should be drunk warm. No. Just no. An imperial stout at 15% served at room temperature in 28-degree heat is not an experience I'd wish on anyone. But served cool – not ice-cold, but around 8–10 degrees – it opens up in a completely different way than a pale lager would. The aromas lift, the bitterness softens, and you start to understand what the brewer actually had in mind.

A milk stout, which is lower in alcohol and sweeter in character, can handle being served a little colder – down to around 6 degrees. That makes it a more immediate summer experience: sweet, creamy, with a milky fullness that almost reminds you of ice cream. Wicklow Wolf Truffle Shuffle Milk Stout from Ireland is a great example. It's only 5% and has a soft, earthy truffle character that isn't overwhelming – perfect for those who want to try something dark without diving in at the deep end straight away. The lactose gives a silky smooth mouthfeel, and the truffle is subtle enough not to dominate – it just rests there, a little mysterious, a little elegant.

Fruit porters and dessert-inspired stouts have exploded as a category in recent years, and this is actually where the real summer potential lies. Think a porter with cherries, raspberries, or mango. That's not a winter drink – it's almost a dessert in itself, and it suits a summer evening on the terrace just as well as a December evening by the fireplace.

Verdant Don't Fear The Cherryman Imperial Stout is a great example of this. The English brewery Verdant is known for balancing chocolate and fruit in a way that doesn't become cloyingly sweet, and the cherry version has exactly the fresh tartness that makes it relevant in the heat. Think dark chocolate, ripe morello cherries, and a hint of vanilla – all in one glass. Serve it cold, in a snifter glass, and ideally alongside a piece of dark chocolate or a board of ripe berries and cheese.

For those who like it even more dessert-like, Arpus Coffee Coconut Imperial Stout from Latvia is something in a class of its own. Coffee and coconut in one glass might sound like a tropical bomb, but it's surprisingly harmonious – think cold black forest coffee with a sun-drenched, South Seas-inspired twist. The espresso bitterness meets a creamy coconut sweetness, and the result is something that actually tastes like summer. At 11% and 44 cl, this is something you'll happily share between two, which is a smart strategy in summer anyway – a little for you, a little for someone you like.

Here's something many people overlook: dark beer is actually a fantastic food match for grilled food. The bitter, roasted character of a porter cuts through fat in a way that both white wine and pale lager sometimes fail to do. Grilled steak with chimichurri? Try a dry, robust stout alongside. Pulled pork with BBQ sauce? Then a sweeter milk stout or a fruit porter is a natural choice – the sweetness in the beer mirrors the caramelisation in the sauce and creates a harmony that's hard to argue with.

With grilled salmon or mackerel, a slightly lighter porter – ideally under 8% – is surprisingly good. The malt-driven, nutty sweetness complements the fatty fish in a way that can surprise even sceptics. I've served this at barbecue evenings and watched people turn around and ask: "What am I drinking right now?" That's the best response you can get.

I won't get too technical here, but the glass actually matters. An imperial stout deserves a snifter or a tulip glass – something that gathers the aromas and lets you sit with the drink for a while. A milk stout can happily be drunk from a classic nonic pint, which makes it feel more everyday and relaxed.

Avoid plastic cups and oversized glasses you drink quickly from. Dark beer is not a drinking sport, it's a tasting experience. Share a 33 cl bottle with someone, take your time, and let the glass warm slightly in your hands between sips. That's actually part of the point – the beer develops in the glass as you sit there, and the last sip often tastes different from the first.

Want to try dark beer in summer without jumping straight into a 15% barrel-aged monster? Start with milk stout – they're often low in alcohol, mild in flavour, and good on ice. Then work your way up towards fruit porters and lighter imperial stouts in the 8–10% range.

Senja Handbryggeri Kolkjerka Imperial Stout is an exciting Norwegian option to take along for the ride. Norwegian craftsmanship from Senja in Troms, 9% and a full-bodied, roasted character with hints of dark chocolate and coffee – robust enough to impress, but not so heavy that it knocks you off your feet in the summer heat. It's a great fit for anyone who wants to support local and at the same time discover that there's more to explore in the world of dark beer.

Dark beer in the summer sun isn't a protest against the season. It's simply a reminder that taste has no calendar. Next time you sit down with something grilled and automatically reach for a pale lager, pause and ask yourself: what if I tried something different tonight? The answer might surprise you.