It started with a bottle without a label.
A warm July evening on a terrace in Venice – that's at least how I like to tell the story – an old man was pouring something deeply ruby-red over ice. Not Campari, I knew that immediately. The color was darker, the aroma more licorice-like, and the taste had a dry, almost forest-like bitterness that lingered long in the mouth. It turned out to be Select Aperitivo, a Venetian classic from 1920 that many Norwegians have yet to discover.
That experience changed the way I think about bitters for good. Campari is fantastic – I won't deny that – but there is a whole world of bitter, complex and fascinating aperitifs that deserve a place on your grill table this summer.
Why bitters work in summer
There is something almost magical about bitterness in the heat. Think of tonic water, of grapefruit juice, of a dark and hoppy IPA. Bitterness stimulates the salivary glands, sharpens the appetite, and gives a longer, more interesting finish than sweet drinks ever can. Combined with bubbles and ice, the bitters liqueur becomes the summer's most satisfying aperitif.
And here is the point many overlook: you don't have to choose between Campari and Aperol. There is a whole spectrum of taste profiles to explore – from light and floral and citrusy to herb-packed and almost medicinal – and one of them is guaranteed to suit your exact grill menu.
Contratto Bitter – for those who want more
If you want something that truly impresses your guests, Contratto Bitter (100cl, 22%) is a natural place to start. Produced by the Piedmontese house Contratto – best known for its elegantly sparkling wines – this liqueur is deeply colored by saffron and natural colorings following a tradition that stretches far back. The taste is richer and more layered than most in the category: caramelized orange, gentian, rhubarb, and a finish that recalls herbal tea with a hint of smoke.
It holds up well in highball mixes, but truly shines in a Negroni where it gives more depth and warmth than Campari. Try it with a wide strip of orange peel twisted over the glass – the essential oils from the peel open up the entire aroma palette.
Norwegian bitters on the rise
Now to what really excites me: Norwegian bitters producers are building a serious position in this market, and the results are impressive.
Oslo Håndverksdestilleri Marka Bitter (50cl, 35%) is perhaps the most exciting Norwegian contribution to the category right now. It is inspired by Norwegian nature – Oslomarka, as the name suggests – and is packed with locally characteristic herbs, bark, and berries. The taste is dry and complex with distinct notes of juniper, forest berries, and a fresh, almost mineral bitterness that settles well on the palate. It is stronger than the Italian aperitifs (35% versus typically 20–25%), and therefore works best used with restraint – but two centiliters in a glass of good tonic with ice and a lime is a small revelation on a warm Friday afternoon.
Atlungstad Aperitivo (50cl, 15%) takes a different approach. Atlungstad, with its distillery in Hedmarken, has made a lower-strength version that is more immediately accessible for the spritz format: light and florally fresh with rhubarb and apple up front, and a mild bitterness that makes it a natural Aperol substitute for those who want something more Norwegian in the glass. Try it with plenty of ice, prosecco, and a slice of grapefruit – it is summer on Mjøsa in a glass.
Luxardo Aperitivo – the underrated cherry alliance
For those who miss a little sweetness and fruitiness in their aperitif without going all the way back to Aperol, Luxardo Aperitivo (70cl, 11%) is a fun alternative. Luxardo is of course famous for its maraschino liqueur, but the aperitivo has its own identity: bright orange, bitter peel, a hint of cherry, and a finish that is drier than you expect. The low alcohol content makes it an excellent choice when it's a long grill evening and you want to keep a clear head – and it is light enough to function as a kind of bridge between the heavier Italian bitters and the more accessible aperitifs.
Three simple mixes for the grill evening
Here are three serving suggestions you can set up in five minutes:
The Venetian classic
Ingredients:
- 6 cl Select Aperitivo
- 9 cl prosecco
- 3 cl sparkling water
- Plenty of ice
- 1 slice of orange for garnish
Method:
- Fill a large wine glass with ice.
- Pour over the prosecco, then the Select Aperitivo.
- Add sparkling water and stir gently once.
- Garnish with the orange slice and serve immediately.
The Norwegian forest glass
Ingredients:
- 2 cl Oslo Håndverksdestilleri Marka Bitter
- 15 cl good tonic
- Ice
- 1 sprig of fresh rosemary
- A few drops of lemon juice
Method:
- Fill a tall glass with ice.
- Pour over the Marka Bitter and lemon juice.
- Top up with tonic – pour gently along the side to preserve the bubbles.
- Lay the rosemary sprig over the glass and serve.
The Piedmontese Negroni
Ingredients:
- 3 cl gin
- 3 cl Contratto Bitter
- 3 cl sweet red vermouth
- Ice
- 1 strip of orange peel for garnish
Method:
- Fill a mixing glass with ice.
- Pour over the gin, Contratto Bitter, and vermouth.
- Stir for 20–25 seconds until the glass is cold.
- Strain into a lowball glass with one large ice cube.
- Twist the orange peel over the glass and rest it on the rim.
Choose based on your grill menu
A quick rule of thumb for matching bitters to what's on the grill:
- Fish and shellfish: go for the lighter aperitifs – Luxardo Aperitivo or Atlungstad Aperitivo – which won't overpower the delicate sea flavors.
- Lamb chops and steak: here you can handle more intensity. Contratto Bitter in a Negroni is perfect – the bitterness cuts through the fat and cleanses the palate.
- Vegetables and cheese: Select Aperitivo in a classic spritz is a safe and elegant match that lifts without dominating.
- Chicken and summer vegetables: Marka Bitter and tonic – the herbal notes complement the grilled flavor without taking over.
Remember that the aperitif is not just a drink – it is a mood-setter. Serve it while there is still a little time left before the food is ready, with a few simple snacks alongside: olives, salted almonds, perhaps a little parmesan. That is when the magic happens.
The bitter truth
Bitter is not just a taste – it is an attitude to life. It is the choice to embrace complexity over simple solutions, to let something linger a little longer in the mouth and discover what is really hiding there.
The old man in Venice with his unlabeled bottle knew this instinctively. And the good thing is that you don't need to travel to Italy to experience the same. Norwegian producers like Oslo Håndverksdestilleri and Atlungstad show that we have the raw materials, the knowledge, and the ambition to make something truly exciting – right here at home.
Hopefully you'll do the same now. As the old Venetian would have said, with a knowing smile and a glass in hand: Salute.
