There's something about citrus in winter that just works. Maybe it's the contrast – the bright, sharp juice against the dark, heavy winter darkness. Or maybe it's nostalgia: Christmas mandarin in the toe of a stocking, orange in the Christmas sock. But this year I've started thinking about citrus as something more than just decoration on the rim of a glass.
I'm talking about citrus as the lead role, not a bit part.
Because right now it's blood orange season. Bergamot is turning up in fine specialty stores. Yuzu you can actually get hold of – both as juice and in concentrated form. And instead of just squeezing them over a simple gin and tonic (which is still absolutely brilliant, honestly), I want to show you how these fruits lift more unexpected drinks. Think dark porters. Red vermouths. Maybe even a Negroni with a citrus twist that makes the whole thing feel like something completely new.
Blood Orange: the Winter Citrus with Drama
Blood orange is the gothic older sister of the regular orange. Dark, blood-red, with a sweetness balanced by something bitter and wild. It has character, plain and simple. And when you pair it with drinks that already have depth and body – like a robust vermouth – things happen.
Take a classic Negroni. I know, it's already perfect. But swap out the regular orange for blood orange, and you get a layer of berry-like tones that play perfectly against Campari's bitterness.
Even better: make a "Blood & Rosso" – a simple drink where you mix red vermouth with blood orange juice, a little sparkling water, and a slice of blood orange in the glass. Light enough to drink before dinner, but sophisticated enough to impress.
Recipe: Blood & Rosso
- 6 cl red vermouth (for example Martini Rosso, PRODUCT_ID: 21601)
- 4 cl fresh blood orange juice
- 3 cl sparkling water
- Ice and a slice of blood orange
Build over ice in a tall glass, stir gently, and top with the blood orange slice. Simple, elegant, and perfect for a Saturday evening when you can't be bothered to line up 47 ingredients on the kitchen counter.
Porter and Citrus: the Meeting You Didn't Know You Needed
I know what you're thinking. Beer and citrus? That sounds like something you do with Corona on the beach. But hear me out: a proper dark porter – with notes of coffee, chocolate, roasted malt – is transformed by a little sharp citrus.
Bergamot in particular. This strange, perfumed citrus (yes, it's the one that gives Earl Grey tea its signature flavour) has an aromatic richness that's almost illegal. It's floral, but not sweet. Sharp, but not sour. When you squeeze a small dash of bergamot juice over a cold porter, you get a drink that is both refreshed and deep.
But let me take it a step further. One of my favourite experiments this winter has been combining porter with port wine. Yes, you read that right. It might sound like overkill, but it actually works fantastically.
Try this: serve a full-bodied porter alongside a little Graham's Late Bottled Vintage 2020 in its own small glass on the side. Take a sip of porter, then a sip of port wine, and then squeeze a small dash of bergamot over the porter glass and take another sip. It's like playing with flavours in your mouth – the port wine's dry sweetness lifts the porter, the bergamot balances everything. It's both playful and luxurious, on a Friday evening at home.
If you want something simpler, you can also just squeeze bergamot directly over the porter. Cut a bergamot in half, squeeze a quarter over the glass, and watch how the perfumed oil dances on the surface. It's like giving the beer a spa treatment.
Yuzu: the Citrus That Tastes of Asia and Elegance
Yuzu is a citrus that has long been a star in Japanese cooking. It's like a hybrid of grapefruit, mandarin, and lime – but with something more, something hard to put your finger on. Many describe it as floral, others as minerally sharp. It is, in any case, absolutely incredible in cocktails.
Yuzu juice you can get in a bottle (check your nearest Asian grocery store), and a small splash can work wonders. Try a simple Yuzu Spritz: white vermouth, yuzu juice, champagne or prosecco, and a twist of lemon peel. It's fresh, lightly tart, and perfect as an aperitif before a Saturday dinner.
Recipe: Yuzu Spritz
- 4 cl white vermouth (for example Martini Bianco, PRODUCT_ID: 21701)
- 2 cl yuzu juice
- 8 cl prosecco or champagne
- Twist of lemon peel
Build in a wine glass with ice, top with prosecco, and twist the lemon peel over the glass before dropping it in. This drink tastes like an elegant spring day in the middle of January.
The great thing about yuzu is that it's not just a one-trick pony. You can use it in everything from a simple gin and tonic (swap out the lime) to a whisky sour (swap out the lemon). It has a complexity that means it never gets boring.
Citrus and Food: Combinations That Surprise
It's not only in the glass that citrus makes its mark. Think about how blood orange cuts through fatty, salty foods – like cured ham, olives, or a robust blue cheese. Serve a splash of extra blood orange juice alongside a cheese board, and watch how it balances the intense flavours.
Bergamot is fantastic with seafood. I learned this from a sushi chef who drizzled bergamot oil over salmon sashimi. Absolutely magical. At home you can rub bergamot zest onto raw prawns, or mix it into a simple dressing with olive oil for a seafood salad.
And yuzu? Perfect with anything that is smoked, grilled, or has a little umami. Try yuzu juice over grilled chicken, or mix it into a mayonnaise for your burger. It's like having a secret ingredient that elevates everything.
Here's a tip: make a simple citrus salt. Mix flaky salt with finely chopped zest from blood orange, bergamot, or regular lemon. Let it dry a little, and use it on everything from popcorn to fried fish. It's one of those small things that makes people ask: "What have you done?"
Why Citrus Works So Well in Winter
There's actually a scientific reason why we crave citrus when it's cold outside. Our bodies need vitamin C, yes, but it's also about contrast. When everything around us is dark, heavy, and warm, citrus gives us something bright and sharp. It's like opening a window in an overheated room.
And then there's this matter of availability. Blood orange, bergamot, and yuzu are not everyday fruits. They appear in short seasons, and that makes them special. When you use them, it feels like you're doing something a little extra – without it needing to be complicated.
Let the Citrus Shine
I think we've underestimated citrus. We've seen it as a supporting player – a garnish, a twist, an afterthought. But in winter, when these fantastic fruits are at their best, it's time to give them the lead role. Blood orange in the vermouth. Bergamot over the porter. Yuzu in the spritz.
So next time you're standing at the kitchen counter on a Saturday evening wondering what to drink, don't go on autopilot. Buy a blood orange. Squeeze it over something surprising. And let the citrus steal the show – it deserves it.
