White Rioja – Summer's Best-Kept Secret

It's a lazy Saturday afternoon, the sun is hitting the terrace floor, and you're about to set out a platter of prawns and a good aioli. You reach for a white wine that matches the moment – something fresh, not too heavy, ideally with a little green character. Most people would pull out a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire or a Pinot Grigio from Venice. Both are solid choices. But what if I told you there's a wine from Spain that does the job just as well – and that most Norwegians have never heard of?

Welcome to white Rioja.

When people hear "Rioja", they almost automatically think of full-bodied, oak-influenced red wine – Tempranillo in all its forms. That's understandable. Rioja is perhaps Spain's most famous red wine region, and the red identity runs deep. But just behind that red façade lies a white wine tradition with roots stretching back to the 1800s, made from the grape Viura – also known as Macabeo in the rest of Spain.

In the decades when red wine dominated everything, much of white Rioja was made in a heavily oxidised, nutty style – aged long in oak, almost sherry-like in character. Not everyone was enthusiastic. And slowly but surely, these wines fell out of fashion.

But something has happened over the last ten to fifteen years.

A new generation of producers in Rioja has taken Viura back to its roots. Instead of long oak aging, they focus on freshness, clean fruit flavors, and what the grape actually does best: herbal, florally expressive white wines with good acidity and a distinct minerality.

Imagine a wine that smells like a Norwegian herb garden on an early June morning – fresh basil, white flowers, a little citrus and a hint of yellow apple. On the palate it's light to medium full-bodied, with a tart nerve that makes you want to take just one more sip. That is white Rioja at its finest.

And it fits like a glove with everything we Norwegians love to eat in warm weather: prawns, grilled white fish, fresh salads, mild cheeses and chicken salads with herbs. Viura is not a diva demanding attention – it's the calm, reliable friend who always delivers.

Among what is available, there are a couple of bottles that really show what Viura can do.

Real Agrado Las Planas Blanco de Viura 2018 is a wine that impresses with balance rather than power. It is made in a more classic style, but without becoming heavy or oxidised. A little age has allowed the fresh notes to be joined by a hint of ripe pear and beeswax, while the acidity keeps everything lively and fresh. This is a wine for those who like a little depth behind the freshness – it pairs beautifully with grilled salmon, a creamy lobster bisque, or a good herb butter risotto. Not a wine that shouts loudly, but one that speaks clearly.

Hacienda Lopez de Haro Viura 2018 is another fine option – lighter in style and more immediately approachable. Here it's citrus and green herbs that dominate, with a snap of white pepper in the finish. Think fresh lemongrass, a little green apple and a hint of minerals from the limestone-rich soils of Rioja Alta. A wine that works fantastically as an aperitif on the terrace, or alongside a simple pasta with pesto and seafood. The price is also friendly – this is everyday wine of the good kind.

Both wines share an appealing quality: they are light enough to drink on their own in the sun, but have enough character to elevate the food.

White Rioja comes in several styles, and it's worth knowing the difference before you shop:

Joven (young): Little or no oak aging. Fresh, floral and citrusy. Perfect for aperitif, prawns and sushi. This is the style most Norwegians will enjoy most for summer use.

Crianza: Some oak aging gives more body, a little vanilla and riper fruit. Pairs well with white fish, chicken and mild cheeses. A good compromise between freshness and complexity.

Reserva: Long oak aging gives a nutty, more oxidative style. Pairs well with tapas, cured meats and manchego. Not for everyone, but fascinating for those who like to explore.

For Norwegian spring and summer, I recommend starting with the Joven style or a light Crianza. This is where Viura really sings – and this is where you'll convince the skeptics around the table.

It's actually quite simple: Rioja has never marketed its white wines particularly well internationally. The focus has always been on Tempranillo and the big red wines. And in Norway, where white wine tends to be associated with Burgundy, Alsace or German Riesling regions, white Rioja has never found its rightful place in the conversation.

That's a bit of a shame, because it's precisely this kind of underdog that makes the wine world fun. You're not paying for the brand name. You're not paying for hype. You're paying for what's actually in the glass – and what's in the glass is surprisingly good.

It reminds me a little of that restaurant nobody talks about, but all the regulars swear by. White Rioja is the wine world's best-kept secret, and it's time more Norwegians found out about it.

If you're having friends over this weekend – and it's precisely these kinds of lazy Saturdays that Viura was made for – serve a bottle of white Rioja cold (around 10–12 degrees), put out a bowl of green olives and a little manchego alongside, and let people guess what they're drinking.

Spoiler: Most won't guess Spain. And even fewer will guess Rioja.

There's something uniquely enjoyable about surprising people with something they didn't know they'd love. White Rioja is not the loud wine that demands attention. It just sits there, cool and calm, does its job superbly – and lets the food and the company shine. Exactly as a good wine should.

Next time you're choosing a white wine for the summer table, give Viura a chance. You won't regret it.